I had always wished to visit Seville. It took years before I could fulfill my dream. Andalusia, where Seville is located, exceeded my expectations. The people are kind, hospitable, and cheerful. The only downside for those who don’t speak Spanish is that very few locals speak English (even the young ones). The food is sensational, the weather consistent, and culturally, it’s a delight.
For this January, the Alhambra was on our itinerary. The Alhambra is a historical marvel that must have been intoxicatingly beautiful at some point and is now fascinating and incredible. It is one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture, initiated in 1238 by Muhammad I Ibn al-Ahmar. The Alhambra is situated on a hill overlooking the Sierra Nevada (home to the southernmost ski lift in Europe). In 1492, the Christians conquered the Alhambra, transforming it into the royal court of Ferdinand and Isabella (the two who funded Christopher Columbus’s voyage and signed the decree for the expulsion of Jews from Spain in the same year). Isabella wished to be buried in the Alhambra after her death, a challenging undertaking given that she died almost 600 km away in Medina del Campo, north of Madrid, in November. Despite being buried in the Alhambra, Isabella is not there today, having been moved under a hill in Granada on the orders of her son. Whether she would have been pleased is another story.
After its heyday (and skipping a significant portion of history – for details, see the link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhambra), the Alhambra saw no further investment, repair, or maintenance. The structures began to decay, and the destitute claimed them, likely hastening their deterioration. The final blow was dealt by Napoleon and his soldiers during their visit, causing significant destruction.
However, the Alhambra was discovered by tourists, and thanks to Washington Irving and his “Tales of the Alhambra” (1832), it gained international fame. From today’s perspective, one might consider Irving Washington a brilliant marketing strategist (place promoter). After that, many wanted to see this place, and in the 19th century, Granada realized that tourism was a good source of income, leading to investments, repairs, and reconstructions in the Alhambra.
One technical aspect that fascinated me completely was the sophisticated water supply system built by Arab engineers. The entire massive fortress was supplied with water from basins located on a higher hill, using the natural slope of the pipelines. The gardens, serving for self-sufficiency, were irrigated, the buildings were cooled in summer, and the baths were serviced. The system still functions today. Impressive, well-thought-out, perfect. There even existed a warning system with turtles to detect possible poisoning by contaminants in a timely manner.
Who wouldn’t want to see such a place with so much history and uniqueness? But, of course, it would be naive to think you can just come, buy a ticket, and go in. You have to book in advance, have a passport because all tickets are personalized, and you can’t enter without one. Alright, we booked early for January 2nd. January 2nd is a very special day in Granada, celebrated with a procession. It’s the day Muslim Granada surrendered to Ferdinand II and Isabella I.
On the morning of January 2nd, I wait for my tour guide, booked two months in advance. He doesn’t show up. Not even 15 minutes later. A call to the travel agency explains that the booking is for January 3rd. What nonsense. I’m flying back home on January 3rd, and I have in my hand a piece of paper confirming payment and the date for January 2nd. The discussion is long and frustrating. The employee insists on January 3rd. Eventually, I give up and ask the reception in my hotel to call the travel agency. I didn’t fly a thousand kilometers to not see the Alhambra! Of course, there isn’t a single available ticket for today; I checked that beforehand. The receptionist talks extensively in Spanish with the travel agency, and I understand nothing, but the receptionist’s expression doesn’t bode well. It looks bleak!! The receptionist informs me that the travel agency will refund my money. And that this has happened to some other guests with this travel agency as well.
Okay, I’m angry and sad at the same time. It can’t be changed. Although I’m staying in the hotel that is within the Alhambra itself, I can’t get in anywhere, neither the gardens nor the palaces, nowhere!! So, I go to the city of Granada, visit the cathedral where Isabella and Ferdinand are buried, see the procession, and at some point during the day, I receive a call from the travel agency. They managed to organize a ticket for tomorrow morning, and with my afternoon flight, I have 3.5 hours to see the Alhambra with a guide. I immediately say yes.
3.5 hours instead of a whole day is little, but better little than nothing. It was worth it. The stress on January 3rd was immense – getting up very early, packing, and then visiting the marvel. The Alhambra is even more fantastic than described. It’s more imposing, breathtaking, unbelievable. Put it on your bucket list!! You must see this.
By the way, I was told that Bill Clinton proposed to Hillary in the Alhambra. In case more inspiration is needed.
Michaela Merz 